San Juan river one of top trout fishing waters in world

San Juan river one of top trout fishing waters in world

July 17, 2001

One of the top trout fishing waters in world

HIGH CLIFFS are on both sides of the San Juan River for many miles, south of Navajo Dam. Fisherman from all around the world come to Northwestern New Mexico to fish these waters for trophy-size rainbow trout. The water coming out of the bottom of the dam is a constant 42 degrees and the river is rich with food which produce large trout.

BY JIM THOMAS
Journal Sports Editor

Having lived in Farmington for most of my life (off and on since 1961), I have fished the San Juan River many, many times.

My father and I bait-fished the river before the Bureau of Reclamation built the earth-filled (now has a concrete curtain inside) dam in 1963. But since the dam was built the San Juan River has become one of the world’s best trout fishing waters.

I’m not a flyfisherman at heart. I like to get out into the water once in awhile. My idea of fishing is to throw out a line, sit on the ground, and pop a top on my favorite beverage while I sit under a shade tree. My first San Juan River flyfishing trip with famed guide Chuck Rizuto (once my automechanic) more than 20 years ago left me skunked. Since then, I've learned a great deal about flyfishing on the river.

But I admit that I do like trout fishing over warmwater fishing any day of the week.

And certainly one of the best places to go is the San Juan River just below Navajo Dam in Northwestern San Juan County in New Mexico. There are several ways to reach the river from Cortez. Head to Hesperus, turn south on the La Plata Highway, at the old (now restored) one-room schoolhouse, turn east to Aztec. From Aztec, just a mile out of town on U.S. Highway 550 is the turnoff to Navajo Dam. Another way to go is to head south to Shiprock on U.S. Highway 666 and then turn west on U.S. Highway 64 and then turn north on Main Street in Farmington taking it to Aztec and then follow the signs.

The San Juan River in New Mexico is one of the finest tailwater fisheries anywhere! The 4.25 miles of San Juan river quality water below the dam holds over 80,000 trout. An average San Juan river trout is 17 inches, but fish larger 20 are abundant. Tiny flies, fine tippets, and New Mexico seasonal variances make for a great fly fishing challenge. Anglers who wade just under the dam release waters (perfect 42 degrees coming out of the bottom), can watch huge trout swim by. They are big! Texas Hole is a spot where it is called that because of the large numbers of fish and the large numbers large fish (27 inches plus). But Texas Hole is popular, too, with the flyfishing set.

Wetting a line near Cottonwood Camp

THIS LONE FISHERMEN stands near Cottonwood Camp on the San Juan River in Northwestern New Mexico. The San Juan River is one of the top trout fishing waters in the world, ranked no. 3 according to many publications. The quality waters, which are from the dam to about four and half miles below, are world-reknown for producing large trout.

Flyfishermen should use tied mayflies, midges, caddis, San Juan worms, and stoneflies. From what I know about flyfishing is that, 20 percent of the trout are opportunistic, 40 percent of them are very selective and the rest of the 40 percent eat just about anything or they can be very selective. Those fisherman who can match the flies what they are feeding at time can catch most of the feeders.

I always like fishing near Cottonwood Campground, located on the north side of the river. There are overnight camping spots, and day picnicking tables. A permit of $4 per day is needed and is payable at the entrance. The whole area at the dam and below for several miles is Navajo State Park, operated by the New Mexico Parks Department.

Anglers should be warned right now, though, that the Bureau of Reclamation is preparing for a low-flow test beginning July 9. The water in the river is expected to drop all the way down to 250 cubic feet per second. This will not be a great time to fish the river.

According to a BOR news release, the five-to-10-day test’s target flow of 250 cfs was recommended by the San Juan River Basin Recovery Implementation Program to "help conserve and recover the endangered Colorado pikeminnow and razorback sucker populations."

For those who only fish the San Juan several times each year but do not want to purchase an out-of-state license, can purchase day-use permits. Those can purchase one from the Navajo State Park Game and Fish office at the lake. The cost is $20 for the annual permit and it includes all NM parks. A permit for a second vehicle can be purchased for an additional $10. Don't forget to have a valid driver’s license, proof of insurance, and vehicle registration handy.

There are many different flyfishing guide services including Duranglers, Born-N-Raised (Abe’s Store), Rizuto’s Fly Shop, Soaring Eagle Lodge, and Rainbow Lodge to mention a few. A person to ask about conditions is Abe Chavez at Abe’s Store and Motel. Folks at The Sportsman’s Lounge and Store also are knowledgeable about river conditions and what to bait, flies or lures to use.

Those who like to eat what they catch, can cross over the bridge and turn left at the A-frame house on a dirt road toward the bend of the river. It is a great place to just throw out a line and sip some suds or Coke or whatever. There is plenty of parking and a spot to put in a float boat.

I also like to fish right under the bridge when the water is low. During this test of low flow, it may be a good time to check out under the bridge. On the southside of the river is a wheelchair-accessible ramp to a dock. When the water is high, there is a rock outcropping that is good spot to sit on. My father-in-law (C.R. Thompson) and I have spent many hours on this rock casting Red Devil and small Mepps lures.