The Animas Forks area is to many, a paradise. An easy access is the San Juan Skyway, a grand loop from Cortez heading east to Durango via U.S. Highway 160 and then north on U.S. 550 to Silverton and Ouray, then west on Colorado 62 over Dallas Divide to Placerville and east to Telluride and then south to Rico, Dolores and Cortez via Colorado 145.

The San Juans are part of the Rocky Mountains, the massive barrier that divides the continent. With 13 peaks above 14,000 feet, the San Juans are often called the "American Alps." The 12,000-square-mile paradise is filled with cascading creeks, spectacular mountains, beautiful mountain lakes, and thundering rivers. The area is accessible via four-wheeled drive sport utility vehicles and jeeps.

Historically, the San Juans lured many miners to seek fame and fortune during the Victorian era.

The mountain scenery, though stunning, presented the miners who settled the region in the late 1800s with some unique transportation problems. The major towns and camps were situated in the valleys, separated from each other by the San Juans' massive peaks. (For example, the distance from Ouray to Telluride is about 60 miles by winding mountain road, but only 12 miles directly across the mountains.) Connecting roads were constructed over the mountains and tolls were charged to miners who used these alpine shortcuts. The cost of passage was high, but ultimately saved the miners a fortune in shipping fees. Those old roads still remain, although four-wheeled vehicles are needed.

Imogene, Black Bear, Engineer — the names of these dirt mountain pass roads are now as legendary as the towns and mines they were built to serve. A trip over any one of the seven alpine passes in this region is a good introduction to the spectacular world above timberline. A four-wheel-drive vehicle and a desire to skywalk through history are the only requirements for modern-day jeep riders.

Reportedly, a lucky prospector once stood in the caldera on the northern side of Molas Pass and yelled, "We may not have gold, but we have silver by the ton." Hence the name of the mining camp along the Animas River — Silverton. Once a rich mining community, Silverton became the county seat following the arrival of the narrow gauge railroad in 1882. Hikers and jeep riders are often drawn by the high country, and continue along the West Animas River toward the mining camps of Eureka, Howardsville and Animas Forks.

This is the jeep ride we took. We left out of Silverton and headed due east. A few metal mining buildings and an old wooden tram house remain. Just north of Eureka are the ruins of the Sunnyside Mill where an enclosed wooden water tank from the Silverton and Northern Railboard has been restored. An enclosed wooden water tank, from the Silverton and Northern Railroad, has been restored. The foundations of some buildings also are visible.

The road gets much steeper at this point and four-wheeled drive vehicles are recommended.

The remnants of Animas Forks comprise one of the most interesting ghost towns in Colorado. Situated at the intersection of Engineer and Cinnamon passes, the most prominent ruin is that of a house with a bay window. Legend has it this once opulent dwelling was originally inhabited by Tom Walsh, who discovered the fabulously productive Camp Bird claim in Imogene Basin. There are some 14 buildings, including the jail, still standing. And those with a good eye can spot a turntable used by a narrow gauge railroad.

Today, a jeep trip over Engineer Pass out of Animas Forks is a wonderful way to get the feel of what it must have been like for gold and silver miners. There are mines and remnants of mills all over the area. Overall, the road is steeper and the hairpin switchbacks are washed out, requiring first gear low for much of the ascent going over Engineer Pass. Just short of the summit, the edge of a ridge literally forms an island in the sky. Those who get out of the jeep are treated to a breathtaking 360-degree view. Fourteen-thousand-foot peaks lay in every direction, some still dusted with patches of snow.

Continuing on over Engineer Pass is Lake City.

Lake City is best known for the infamous Alferd Packer. According to historical accounts, Packer killed and ate his companions during an ill-fated prospecting excursion into the San Juans in the late 1800s. Although he admitted consuming his fellow miners, he stubbornly maintained he ate the men only after they had died, and purely as a matter of survival. The town is almost a pure Victorian era village. Ken Henley, my friend who owned the jeep, and I camped near Rosa’s Cabin, a wayside place for gold miners. For the most part, the miners visited (yeah, right) with the women and drank lots of whiskey.

Nearby Lake San Cristobel is stunning. It is one of only a few natural lakes in Colorado. Jeep riders can then head over Cinnamon Pass back to the ghost town of Animas Forks where the Animas River really does fork. The road was in excellent shape and we arrived back at the ruins of Animas Forks. The trip around Alpine Loop takes travelers back to U.S. Highway 550.

The next stop north of Silverton over the Million Dollar Highway (US Highway 550), is the ghost town of Red Mountain, near the summit of Red Mountain Pass. A few buildings still remain here. Looking up at those tall, albeit jagged peaks, it is no wonder they call the area "Switzerland of America." Ouray, once an almost abandoned mining community (established in 1875) is booming. The quaint town is growing like most mountain communities but it still retains much of its charm.

Black Bear is another off-road jeep ride. It originates near the summit of Red Mountain Pass on Highway 550, ultimately emerging alongside the 800-foot Bridal Veil Falls in Telluride. It is a one way road; ascending from Telluride is virtually impossible. Four-wheel-drive rental agencies in the area include a clause in the contract that forbids customers to attempt the pass. And when faced with the steep exposure, even veteran four-wheelers have been known to "freeze up". Henley did not freeze, but I cinched my seatbelt a little tighter for the trip down.

The views of Telluride are spectacular from where the trail makes a long descent into town. It goes past several mines and old mills. There are some wicked series of extreme hairpin turns on the way down and around Bridal Veil Falls. There is a rather steep 1,000 foot plunge on one side.

Telluride, once a stop for the Rio Grande Southern Railroad, was once a very sleepy old Victorian mining town. Today, it is filled with shops and new condominiums. Most of its charm is gone.

Just past opulent Mountain Village is the ghost town of Alta. Alta Lakes, located at about 11,000 feet in elevation. There is an old boarding house for miners still standing there among some other houses. The lake there is just beautiful and certainly a good place to camp, which we did.